Buffalo crossing river |
Thurs 8th June
We left
Grand Teton National Park and headed up the 50 odd miles North to Yellowstone
National Park.
Stopped a
couple of times in the snow as we went over the Continental Divide …again…seems
to be a thing with travelling in the Rockies!
Arrived at
Bridge Bay campground on the Yellowstone Lake and at 7800 feet, fortunately
we’d pre-booked for 4 nights so the “Campground Full” notice didn’t apply to
us!
After a bit
of lunch we drove out to Fishing Bridge and out to Pelican Creek where we’d
seen otters in the past. None this time but some good birds, Buffleheads
galore, Lesser Scaup and Green-winged Teal.
Also lots of
mozzies!
We then
headed north and into the Hayden Valley where we saw several buffalo amongst
the hot springs and elk dotted around in the open meadows.
There were a
load of people on the rise above the river and when we enquired what was going on,
we were told there had been 2 of a pack of 4 wolves seen there the previous
evening.
So we found
somewhere to park and got out the camping chairs, binoculars and telescope and
sat in the sun until about 8:30 pm. We saw an elk and its new calf come running
out of the forest and thought it may be a pre-cursor to a wolf hunt but nothing
happened.
We
watched a buffalo swim across the fast flowing river and also spotted a
Sandhill Crane but still no wolves!
Headed
back to the campground and barbecued a couple of thick steaks and ate them in
the dark around the campfire.
Fri 9th June
We left the
campground fairly late this morning at about 9:30 and headed North through
Dunraven Pass and over Mount Washburn .
Stopped a
few times on the mountain to look for wildlife but didn’t see anything out of
the ordinary.
We then
dropped down the other side to Tower/Roosevelt junction as we’d heard that
there was a Black bear with cubs in the area.
There were a
couple of places where we’d seen black bears on previous visits along the road
from Tower to Mammoth so we drove over that way but didn’t find any.
We then
thought we’d head down the Lamar valley for a few hours and within minutes of
turning down the road from tower we encountered a lot of people beside the high
road bridge over the Yellowstone River.
Sure enough
this is where the bears were and a Park Ranger had stopped the traffic across
the bridge as it seemed they were climbing up the steep side of the ravine
toward the road.
I got a few
photos as they came up onto the road, a female Black bear with 2 cubs.
I was
thinking that they would just cross the road and carry on down the side of the
river but No! They wanted to cross the river not the road so they set off
across the bridge with cars stopped about halfway and people watching at either
end.
People were
pretty good and gave them plenty of space and they left the road at the other
end of the bridge to continue foraging up on the high ridge on the opposite
side of the river from us.
We continued
down the Lamar valley and had lunch parked up near the Ranger office halfway
along the valley.
After
watching a couple of large herds of buffalo with several youngsters we made our
return to Tower but met the crowd and the bears a few hundred yards from our
previous encounter.
This time we
parked on the side of the road and I sussed out where I thought they were going
and set up my camera on the tripod and waited a few minutes before I was
rewarded with some great views of both Mum and her cubs. Frame filling images
in good light, although it wasn’t long before the crowd picked up on their whereabouts
and came to join me.
We left them
to it then as despite the bears treating the whole thing with total disdain it
had become a bit of a circus.
As we drove
back towards the campground it started to rain and it gradually became heavier
so it was food indoors tonight from a tin of beef stew and a chance to edit a
few photos (that means DELETE lots!)
Black bear and cubs using the bridge over the Lamar river |
Saturday 10th June.
We stopped a
short distance from the campground at the thermal area of mud volcanoes for a
look at all the steam vents coming from the centre of the earth. One has even
erupted through the tarmac of the car park!
We tried to
see the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone at Artists Point but it was so busy
that we couldn’t find a space to park the camper so we went on over to the
Brink of the Falls where the Yellowstone river thunders over the falls and into
the canyon below. Very impressive and helped by the fact that the river is in
flood at the moment so plenty of water being forced into a small gap and over
the falls.
From Canyon
we drove across to Norris to check out the campground there as we will need a
new site on Monday. It looked good and is a “first come, first served” site so
we’ll aim to get there late on Monday morning.
We had lunch
watching a few buffalo graze in the water meadows at Norris and also watched an
Osprey hover above and a Mountain Bluebird feeding next to the camper.
We the
headed down to Madison Junction and West towards the West entrance, to a place
where we’d been lucky with seeing otters back in 2015.
Unbelievably
as we left the main road onto a little riverside loop I thought I saw a tree
branch rolling downstream. Closer inspection revealed 2 otters fishing in the
fast flowing torrent. It has been very windy all day today and the water was
quite rippled and turbulent so picking them out was difficult at first. After a
while I got to the shoreline with my camera and watched the hunting for several
minutes and got a few photos as well. They were slowly heading downstream so we
drove to another pullout area about a half mile further down but never saw them
again.
We then
headed back toward Madison campground area where there was a large herd of
buffalo grazing in the meadows on the far side of the river.
There were a
lot of people there watching but we managed to squeeze the camper into a
parking space and watched the herd. There were lots of young calves with their
mothers and a few young bulls and what seemed like one senior bull.
After a
short while the dominant bull decided to swim across the river to the meadow by
the road and proceeded to swim directly towards me and my camera. When he was
about 2/3 of the way across I thought it best to make myself scarce so I moved
back towards the trees and the road. This was only the start as most of the
herd then decided to follow and most of the calves were helped across by the
mothers swimming alongside and upstream of them to protect them from the fast
flowing current. This was some of the best photography I’d done for a long time
and I took a lot of images, both close up and landscape shots of the herd in
the environment.
When we
arrived back at Bridge Bay it was about 6:30 so we had some bacon on the BBQ
and baked spuds via the microwave (all mod cons in these campers!).
After tea I
took a stroll around the campground trails down to the shore of the Yellowstone
Lake. Here I found a young Elk buck that we’d spotted earlier.
I took a few
photos but I was very close and on my own and he was unsure so I let him carry
on grazing on the shoreline willow scrub. At one time he went into the water to
access the willows and then decided to have a good old dance and frolic in the
water with legs in the air and water splashing all around. Great to see although
at about 8 pm in the evening and amongst trees the light was pretty poor and I
had to push the ISO of the camera and over expose for the lake in the
background. Not my best but still quite a pleasant experience being that close
to an Elk.
Upper Falls at the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone |
Buffalo calf on the other side of the river |
Sunday 11th June.
We left the
campground and looked in at Fishing Bridge to fill up with fuel… very expensive
here compared to the outskirts of Denver
$2:77 compared to $2:13 per gallon (not litre as at home!).
Picked up
some food items and headed over to checkout Pelican Creek before heading off
for the day. Remarkably there was a Pelican in at Pelican Creek! An American
White Pelican and also thanks to Linda for spotting a Belted kingfisher!
We then
headed up past Canyon and over Dunraven pass and Mount Washburn toward Tower /
Roosevelt junction.
We stopped
for coffee just after the summit and watched and photographed 3 Hoary Marmots
lazing about on the rocks waiting for the sun to come out.
Dropped down
the mountain and took the turning down into the Lamar valley.
There were
some large herds of buffalo in various places down through the valley and when
we had past Slough Creek we came across several people with binos, scopes &
cameras. Guessing they were looking for Wolves we tried to park but there was
no space on the side of the road so we drove on another ¼ mile and pulled off
at a layby.
I got our
telescope out on the tripod and scanned the area near the buffalo and ‘lo and
behold’ 6 Wolves out in the open with several playing around and a couple
wearing radio tracking collars.
We watched them
for about half an hour and saw them playing, scratching and generally relaxing
before one of the light coloured ones with a collar started off toward the buffalo.
They all followed in a ragged line with the last one carrying quite a bad limp.
The buffalo
weren’t the least bit bothered, despite them having a few youngsters amongst
the group.
We
eventually lost sight of the wolves as they went into the sage brush beyond the
herd and you had to wonder if they’d already eaten and were just sussing out
their territory.
We then
headed farther down the Lamar valley just past Soda Butte Creek and pulled out
for a spot of lunch.
I got the
telescope trained on the nearby mountain and managed to count at least 9 white
Mountain Goats on ledges and also 3 of those had new born kids with them.
When we got
back to Tower we saw the black bear female with the 2 cubs lazing under a tree
in a meadow. I took a few photos but they were having a lazy Sunday!
One good
thing was that the Park Ranger watching over the bears showed me the nest of a
pair of Great Horned Owls with 3 sizeable owlets in it. I got a few photos but
it was always distant and I understand it is being monitored by the Park
Service so little chance of getting much closer.
As we passed
back through the Hayden Valley to Bridge Bay there were a few “buffalo jams”
and one “elk jam” but we did pull out and watch a pair of adult plumage Bald
Eagles sitting on a bluff above the Yellowstone River calling like crazy.
Whilst watching them Linda spotted a Coyote, her second for the day… but not
one photographable yet!
Back to the
campground and BBQ’d pork steaks with macaroni!
Also had a
White-crowned Sparrow perched on the wood around the picnic table!
The wolves give the buffalo a bit of space |
Monday 12th June
We left the
Bridge Bay campground this morning after a night of thunderstorms and heavy
rain.
The morning
however was fine with good sunshine so we stopped off at the South rim of the
Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone to get a few photos of the falls from Artists
Point.
It was very
busy with bus after bus of oriental tourists all wishing to do a “selfie” in
front of the waterfall!
We then
drove across to Norris and booked in at the campground there for a couple of
nights. We were lucky and got a great site down next to the water meadows.
There has been a bear on the site quite a bit lately so I’m keeping the camera
ready.
As we parked
up on our site Linda spotted a Northern flicker, a large woodpecker for those
not in the know! It was nesting in a tree just at the end of our pitch and I
got a few shots of its head sticking out of the nest hole.
We went on a
drive up to Mammoth in the afternoon, then round to tower where we passed the
black bear family lazing in a meadow and then on up to Canyon to pick up some
more food and drinks.
I’d been in
shorts and tee shirt all day but it suddenly started to snow as we came through
Dunraven Pass and continued into the evening.
I had to
abandon plans to barbeque and instead ate scrambled eggs in the camper whilst
the snow came down heavily and we watched the couple in the next door site
struggling to upright their gazebo in the snow. Pleased we aren’t tenting like
them!
Snowing like crazy on the 12th June!!!! |
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